This is somewhat of a cut and paste from my Tbricks project with a little bit of adding in and adding on. If its not to late 56k go make a sammich cause its long
I didn't know who’s car this is but I always liked the look. (Tenacious Todd on TBricks) Initially I wasn’t trying to copy it and only found the picture long after mine was painted black and more recently after I changed the wheels
So here’s what I started with.
It’s a one owner 86 240 GL. Fully loaded, power everything, sunroof, auto, working a/c, 14’ Coronas, Black leather and only 83K on the clock. Driven by a little old lady who bought it new in Albuquerque and kept it in her garage. Sweetness.
At this point all the mods were really not visible except for the Virgo’s that I painted body color because they looked pretty rough and discolored. I had IPD sways with poly bushings, Torque and panhard rods, along with the TME Sport Springs and BOGE struts and shocks,new tie rods, ball joints and brakes. Along with a solid stage Zero The exhaust was a IPD cat back kit. Trying to make the best of N/A Power at 6500 ft I built a 6 deg advance cam sprocket, and put in an E-Fan from an S80
I started piecing the Plus-T parts together over the course of a year, doing what I could at my lunch breaks and then having the rest of the kit installed in 1 day. Thanks to Jim (jimjawz). Essentially it was everything from a 87 740 with a Mitsu 13b. We called it the starter turbo and it was on 3 different plus t cars.
This was actually my 1st avatar I pieced together a 740 turbo and 240 emblem.
Time for paint.
The cars body was in pretty good shape minus a small dent or two but being silver gray iin the southwest it didn’t rust the paint just fell off. I stripped everything I could off the car except the glass and handles and had it Schiebed . I had them do the hood, trunk and door jams as well as fix a couple of dents. Sorry for the crappy cell pics its all I had at the time.
Here are a few after it was put back together The emblems are new and agiain I cut up a 240DL and 740 turbo emblem to make it look stock.Thanks to Dave Barton for the moose stickers
This was my after painting sig on Tbricks for a while.
I finally got the side markers wired correctly so they are on with the park lights and blink with the turn signals.
It was time for a new (to me) Turbo I picked up a 13c with a 90 plus manifold from another Tbricker. Ian (Murderface). I also tossed in a T cam.
It was time for some new tint as 20+ years had taken its toll on the original tint so I went with 15% all around.
I had a custom Euro plate made to match my normal registration tag and mounted it in the stock position. Seems either you like it or you don’t. I have a second plate coming to mount up front. The regular plate is lit with the vehicle lighting. Its been there for over 2 years without issues from the Police. I also have the class 3 Volvo hitch. Do I pull anything? Nope, but I left it there because nothing says slow like a trailer hitch.
Here are a couple of pics from a track day last year
Here are the 4 Volvos for the day Jimjawz in his brothers car “Betty”, Me, Dane, and Ian (murderface)
I wrote an article for Rolling Magazine depicting our then friendly challenge between myself and Jim (jimjawz) titled " A tale of two turbos part 1" and they published it a while back I will try and scan it and post it.
I did all my gauges thanks to Dave Bartons Page davebarton.com
This is a Glowshift AFR gauge and it was the closest thing I could find to match. I can swap it out with an ambient temp gauge as well.
The next improvement was the Freds chip followed by the addition of EZK 117 I would love to find a chippable 117 but so far no dice. I included an EZK schematic for anyone else who would like to do this swap. The hardest part is figuring out where the wires go.
I had the control arms boxed and replaced all the supension bushings with Poly, what a difference.
I need to give credit where credit is due. These control arm box plates came from sdturbo
www.yoshifab.com and I had then welded,painted and then popped in the poly bushings. I need to order a rear set now.
New Turbo Time. The 13c was good to about 11-12psi and I happened across an almost brand new Cherry Turbo’s 18t. I E-mailed Cherry about it and for specs and was told it was set up to run 17-18psi. Which is just above what the 9mm rods should handle. It seemed perfect and it runs awesome. According to Fred This setup should be good for 225 HP+. I do know it will destroy an AW70 in short order.
I installed a fuel pump from an S80 T-6 in the tank and bypassed the undercar main pump. It was good for 300+hp so I am sure its good enough for me. Sorry no pics.
Scored a Black sunroof headliner for free with all the matching clips, handles ect. With the dark tint its like driving around from inside of a cave Thanks to my employer Dave Lang at Independent Volvo, Albuquerque.
Not long after the Freds chip went in I did kill my AW70 so I made a short trip to the shops private parts yard and pulled a M47 and all the necessary pieces for the swap. I wrote "A tale of two turbos pt2" for Rolling and will try to link that as well. Special thanks to Dave Lang at IVS for supplying the M47. I scored a leather shift boot from a fellow T-bricker
The Shops private bone yard. Its currently almost full. The container has old Volvo goodness in it.
The extra switch is a fan override that puts the E-fan on 100% all the time. It works very nice. On my last track day after 15 solid minutes of hard running he temps never hit ½. Also thanks again to Dave Barton for the adjustable voltage regulator. But I am going to look in to adapting a 100 amp alt that I found. I put a Kenwood head unit in the lower cubby when I installed the gauge setup. It as the USB input on the front.
Here is my latest addition. I scored a set of 16’ Regulus wheels from a S80 that was sitting out back so along with 25mm spacers up front and 32 mm spacers in the back I finally stepped in to the 90s with some bigger wheels. I am running Falken RE912’s 205-50-16’s. It was also time for some new rotors so I went with the Zimmerman crossdrilleds. Again, thanks to Dave Lang for the wheels
So here’s where it stands now and it looks surprisingly like the car in the First pic. I have the bike rack to haul around my Trek 1.2 that I picked up last year
I finally got sick and tired of my lights. The fronts were yellowed an loose and the rears were faded and cracked. So instead of polishing its time for some new ones.
I replaced the rears with the chrome bar to black. These were from work Uro's $60 ea
The fronts I just picked from Ebay (made in Estonia) for $112 shipped. I thought about just replaceing the lenses but the lenses were $65 so I said hell with it and splurged. Besides this is soooo much easier and you get new chrome.
Look at the difference. The S/W sun just beats the plastic.
And now New lights with 55-100W bulbs
I will get some better pics after I clean the car. It just snowed,thawed,melted and its now freezing.
I Just put on the E-codes from FCP. The plastic is a little cheesy but the light look and work awesome. I also managed to get the side markers turned around that Grandmasideways noted and I think it looks better.
The Euro plates match front and rear and are my actual registration numbers. Its not how its done in Sweden but I liked it.
Just back from the wash and right before track day. It will stay clean for about 15 minutes.