Here's a quick way to make you really depressed:
Tape measure in metric or the ability to do math and a straight edge 40-48" long are all that is needed.
firstly: if you have any strut bracing, remove them. If not, remove the padding & plugs for where they would go & measure the thickness of the padding. Check front cross member for tightness. There isn't a torque spec, but I arbitrarily chose 55ft-lbs. Measure with the car on the wheels on flat ground with the wheels straight.
A) Upper strut mount is retained by three bolts. The single one nearer the firewall is a fixed point. Measure across from the center of that bolt to the center of the same bolt on the opposite tower. This should be 1020 +/- 2mm.
B) place your straight edge to make a visual point of reference of A. Measure straight across from center of A to the center of the firewall, and add the thickness of the padding. This should be 236 +/- 2mm.
C) You're done with the straight edge. From a strut pivot bolt you are now going to measure across the engine to the opposite upper chassis brace hole in the firewall. I put the corner of the tape measure in the hole to center it, you can just add the thickness of the padding if desired. It's going to be off so who cares. Supposed to be 855.5 +/- 2mm.
D) look for cracks or popped welds at the joints under the hood hinges that mate the inner fender, windshield and firewall skins. If you really want to dig in remove the fenders.
For fun, turn the wheels just shy of full lock, or put boards under one wheel and remeasure.
E) Beer time! Good job. If you're off by more than 5-8mm you won't even be able to brace the car with out fabricating your own stuff.
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