Lumber Wagon Version VII

Why looky here, it seems the original owner was an OCD College Professor type,
and got his hands on an IPD catalog.
SS Flex lines,and fancy rotors.



Not to mention the 28mm bar I bought in the IPD Group Buy.

Don't try this at home,at least not with a knife that is too sharp.

Got the Corona rollers on.
Got the rocker trim off.
Rockers sanded where smooth and burgundy scuffed lower where they are textured with Dilute detergent and water.
Wet sanded the body again with 600.
Put some POR metal ready on the bare spots to start burning the rust out of the pores,and pits.



Notice the spots of tape over the trim holes to keep the water out of the dead end cavities in front of the rear wheels.
It's really pretty straight,and other than the professionally replaced passenger side rear quarter panel & rear door there is no evidence of collision damage.

Door opening windlace is removed and labeled to speed reassembly.
Some high solids industrial 2 part brushing epoxy for areas that are hard to spray,and won't be seen.

Detergent and burgundy [extra fine] scotch pad scuff on the radiator support,and yoke.

Busted the crapter-market replacement windshield prying against the glass to get the trim off.
No great loss it had a big rock star just below the line of vision, and the tinted section at the top had faded.

Luckily the replacement windshield was set in the OE style Butyl Flex.
A nice old paring knife is my choice to cut the goo.
The windshield tool is quicker,but it gouges the paint in the channel.
Now or later the time will be spent,I would rather not make unnecessary work for myself.

Windshield out.

IPE" 1 X 3 chopped at 63º cuts the Butyl out of the windshield channel.

The Roloc disc makes quick work of paint and rust scale removal.
POR Metal Ready [Phosphoric Acid with Zinc] is next.

Got some stuff done today.

Scuffed the cowl inlet with scotch brite and wax and grease remover to clean tape residue,and surface rust on the bottom edges of the inlet vents.
Hit the bare metal several times with Metal Ready.
Cleaned the spray grease off the hinges with isopropyl alcohol,then windex [ammonia],soap and water,then rinsed with the hose.

Thinking about taking the stainless window cladding off,stripping it with aircraft remover,and going 140 & early 240 brightwork style.
The main piece wouldn't release where it's curved.
I'll try again to see if I can get it off without damaging it.
Perhaps I should practice in the JY.

Peeled the windlace for the hatch,removed the striker,and alcohol scuffed the jamb.
Went back over the body,and windshield opening to remove tar,and scuff marks.
Some days it doesn't look like anything happened at all.
Supper time.

Masking off the dash with 5 mil polyethylene sheeting.
Plastic is tucked in behind the rubber strip that acts as a dam for the windshield sealant,
and in front of the dash then trimmed back with a razor blade.
Regular masking tape is run on the plastic to catch the fold,and give the orange painters tape something to stick to.
Special thanks to BoostIT for the information about the Evapo-rust solution.
It is not an acid but appears to be a fairly benign sulphur compound.
POR Metal Ready [Phosphoric acid with Zinc] is shown in the background,along with Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning and de-greasing.

Drivers side rear door rust spot needs a little stripping with a small coarse wire wheel.
Then the channel shined up with the large fine wheel to keep the metal as smooth as possible.



Notice where door has been hacked for speakers.

Here is the welded area from the passenger side quarter panel replacement.
The bondo was an eighth of an inch thick and blistering from the rusty welds.
Again,the small [to keep cutting speed down] coarse brush digs out the bondo and rust then the fine wheel smoothes the metal.
All old bondo is removed.
It looks like the crappy cheap stuff,and it has to be redone anyway.
Smaller coarse brush is shown cleaning after the evapo-rust has dissolved the rust.

Smoothing across the grinding grain of the previous repair.




Notice the tan colored epoxy primer sealer indicative of the previous repair in the feathered areas.

Found significant rust on the bottom of the rear passenger side door that had already been replaced.




Hunting the Oakland PnP for a late 940 glass headlight - fog - corner light for my body man I came across a rust free 79 244.
I bought the door I needed from it for $50.
It was well worth it to start with a clean slate.

Pulling the door seal gently to stretch it a bit,and twisting it removes it intact quickly.

Drilling out the 140 early 240 plastic trim clips.



If you yank them out it will chip the paint and your shit will rust.

Alcohol, wax & grease remover and a cut down chip brush gets it clean.

Reference picture of the factory duct tape that keeps the trim from chafing the paint.

The DL early manual window door has a round 7/8 inch hole with no wiring for the windows or power door locks.
The GL doors have a slotted hole to accept the rubber accordion dust boot.
Hogging it out with an old broken drill bit.

Smoothing,shaping,and deburring the hole inside and out with a 5/8 carborundum stone.



Edges are painted with a paint touch up bottle and allowed to dry before the shavings are hosed out of the inside of the door.

Empty door shell is balanced on shoulder and bolted back on car.
The old bolt marks on the hinge are used to rough the alignment in.
Power locking,and power window units are then installed.